I've checked the reservoir and it still looks pinkish-orange. I've driven my car about 20 mile in 3 days. Autozone's coolant looks orange to my old eyes. If you do, you will see a brown sludge result. The manual says not to mix green with pink (G12). Then I discovered the wonders and glories of Audi/VW's G12 coolant. I filled the reservoir and before I put the cap back on, I checked the owners manual to make sure I had done everything right. It said "for all US cars and light trucks". When it came on again, I figured I could take care of it myself. No problems until the light came on again. I took it to an oil change place and they filled up the reservoir and the blinking light went away. Man i love working on this car, its changed from a chore to a hobby.Recently, my thermostat warning light came on. I think the best method is doing it over the course of few days and drives, topping off/checking levels/bleeding through the upper coolant pipe. also even though the expansion tank is the highest point i don't know if the hydrostatic pressure from the 1 gallon or so stored in the upper part of the system would be enough to get an air pocket out of the heater core, even over a long amount of time. If enough time is allowed for the system to gravity fill naturally from the tank, there is no way for air to be trapped in the cooling system.the only issue i have with this is that any points that dip and rise may still have air trapped in there. If the refill process is rushed, air will be trapped in the cooling system causing more problems as the cooling system heats up. I have always used this time method with top ups as needed, and have never had any air trapped in the cooling system after refilling. Letting the system air purge overnight the best. This process takes about an hour or longer. ![]() I am convinced that the only reliable way to fill the cooling system is to allow a lot of time for coolant to slowly gravity fill and push all the air out through the uncapped expansion tank cap opening. Possible there are some bubbles caught in the heater core? Should I just prepare myself to do a full flush when I replace my coolant flange? The coolant is quite new so I would just reuse it.īTW THIS THREAD is what I was referring too. My heat is decent, nothing I would have ever complained about though thinking about it, its not as hot as I would like. ![]() Does this mean I need to bleed the system? I'm fairly sure on the process: back the bleeder screw on the coolant rail above the IM, and just wait until it stops bubbling. I very clearly saw the level of the tank rise and a bubble or two came out. I open the lid and the pressure release starts dumping coolant down all over my poor subframe. I checked the coolant level and ovbiously you can't tell from the slant. I got my sandwich at the deli, drive the 1/2 mile the rest of the way to work park (at a roughly 15 degree nose down slant). I opened the top and hear a rush of air and some bubbles come out. SO this morning I was curious and checked the tank and it was way above max. FYI I did this while the engine was warm. It was below Min so I topped it up to right in the dead center of the two, where the seam of the tank is. So I topped off my tank last week with distilled water. ![]() So a little update since I was reading something about coolant bubbles the other day.
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